Now
that evenings have turned chilly, you might be thinking of warm layers,
firesides, and maybe something to warm your insides, like one of
France’s top brandies. No, not
Cognac. We’re talking about Cognac’s less-glamorous cousin,
Armagnac,
a brandy from Gascony in southwestern France. Although Cognac may be
more well-known (and more rapped about on the radio), Armagnac’s small
producers create artisanal brandies with a loyal cult-like following.
Think of Armagnac and Cognac like Los Angeles and San Francisco; one
big, glamorous and sometimes a bit over-priced; one smaller, funkier,
and with more bang for your buck.
Brandy is made by fermenting
grapes into wine, then distilling the wine into a spirit, which is then
aged in oak barrels. Armagnac has stronger alcohol than Cognac, but is
also more fragrant, full-bodied and robust. This is partly to do with
the grapes used—
Armagnac
is made up of mostly four white grapes: ugni blanc, folle blanc,
colombard and baco blanc, while Cognac just uses the neutral-tasting
ugni blanc—and partly to do with the distillation process. Cognacs are
double-distilled for smoother alcohol, while Armagnacs are distilled
only once, to keep the spirit flavorful. When the spirit emerges from
the still, it is water-white and doesn’t yet contain many of Armagnac’s
signature flavors. The color and flavor are added by long periods of
aging in French oak barrels. The best Armagnacs can have characteristics
of prunes, figs, dried apricots, earth, caramel, vanilla, roasted nuts
and toffee.
How will you know which Armagnac to buy? The label
designations of VS, VSOP and XO are indications of how long the
youngest wine in the blend was aged in barrel, with VS representing the
youngest blends (1-3 years in barrel) up to XO, which can be over 20
years. Since Armagnacs don’t improve with age once they’ve been bottled,
you don’t need to worry about saving the bottle once you’ve bought
it—it’s good to go! If you do store it for a while, make sure to store
the bottle upright; prolonged contact between the brandy and the cork
can spoil the bottle.
Some of our favorite producers include:
Larressingle Sempé Darroze Château de Ravignan Domaine D'Ognoas Have a comment about Armagnac? Tell us
here.
Photo Credit: Luxuo.
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